View from tower in Tampere
I love my people. I refer here of course to my fellow Finns. We are a clean, virtuous, hard-working, fun-loving nation. We take most things in stride but when feathers are ruffled we’re prepared to act. The country is beautiful and efficiently run with a strong social safety net typical of good socialist democracies. There are problems, just like anywhere else, but they are fewer than most places and are mostly recognized and being addressed.
Yesterday we took the train to Tampere, two hours out of Helsinki and Finland’s second largest city. There we met my cousin, Jorma and his wife. He’s 82, ten years my senior, and a model for how I hope I am at his age. He’s got energy, spirit, a good sense of humor and a wise perspective. Admittedly this is not altogether unusual among Finns. He’s also been blessed with good physical health. Sadly his dynamic wife of sixty years, Kaija, has some health issues but this did not deter her from meeting the missus and I when we arrived.
We strolled around the city. Kaija speaks a little English but Jorma is of one of the last generation of Finns who did not have compulsory English instruction in school. (Today Finnish school children start learning English in the second grade which is why so many Finns are fluent and barely have an accent). Jorma is the only Finn we’ve encountered on our trip who can’t speak English. He is blameless in this.
Our hosts steered us to a large market hall that has been in the same spot since the first years of the 20th century. There were stands of all variety specializing in fish, meat, cheese, pastries and of course, you name it. There were also cafes and restaurants and we stopped at one where I had the best meal of the trip thus far. Cod, with potatoes and cabbage with an oyster sauce. My goodness it was succulent. Jorma and Kaija are known to many who lunch there and we were proudly introduced. To one person Kaija introduced me as a professor at the University of California. I graciously let it go.
Back outside we watched a large protest and march of senior citizens decrying proposed cuts to elder benefits. (I never said Finland was perfect.) It was inspiring to see the usually taciturn Finns wielding signs and marching and airing their grievances.
After that it was to our hosts house for a short rest and water, and a look at old photo albums. From there we went to a large tower that afforded us views far and wide both of the city and the surrounding forests. Spectacular.
We were then handed off to Jorma’s and Kaija’s daughter and son-in-law — fluent English speakers, of course — for more conversation then dinner.
It was back on the train after that and more views of Finland’s innumerable trees, lakes, rivers and pastures.
Today we went to the Ateneum Museum, Finland’s national gallery, where there was a wonderful exhibition of Finnish artist Eero Nelimarkka. We enjoyed our time there very much. As I’ve noted previously, the wife and I love a good museum and even like a mediocre one. This one was excellent.
I had salmon soup for lunch and it was both comforting and delicious. We then ran an errand before returning for a pre-dinner rest.
Tomorrow we leave my homeland for Denmark.
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